Day 2

Hutton-le-Hole to Levisham        

 

13 miles

We heard the wind against the windows and opening the curtains saw that it was snowing, although none had laid.  Cars passing by had a layer of snow on them and at breakfast we were told Rosedale had a good covering.

After a lovely breakfast at the Barn we set off kitted out in wet weather gear and indeed it snowed on and off until 2pm.  We were lucky to have the wind to our side or rear and only walked into it for short stretches.

Leaving Hutton-leHole

It soon starts to snow

Grassy track

We left Hutton-le-Hole along the track to the side of the Folk Museum following the signs for Lastingham.  Our path led us through woods and fields until we joined the road just before walking down into Lastingham.  It was snowing heavily and we stopped to chat to the Church Warden, who had just unlocked the church, and, sheltering under his umbrella  told us what wonderful weather he had enjoyed last week in Devon.  We were glad to look around the church which was dry and warm.

Entering Lastingham

The Blacksmith's Arms at Lastingham

Weather vane at The Blacksmiths

St Mary's Church

We decide to explore the church

We had the church to ourselves and it was nice to look around while we warmed through. We read that the church is on one of the earliest Christian sites as it was hear that St Cedd established his monastery in 654AD.  There is a stone crypt, built in the 11th century and we descended to have a look, finding it a very peaceful spot.

Inside St Mary's

Stairs to the crypt

Carole in the crypt

Serpents on a Saxon stone

Back to the outside world

We returned to the snow and as we walked out of Lastingham we paused to admire an ancient well dedicated to St Cedd.  On leaving the village we returned to field paths before crossing a stone footbridge over Ings Beck.

Approaching St Cedds Well

St Cedd's Well

The Inn Way sign leads us off the road...

... and into muddy paths

Bridge over Ings Beck

We reached Scarth Wood where there was a steep drop to the side of our track after which we returned to fields and more woodland until we came to an overgrown track known as Bull Ing Lane.
After half a mile this track took us to the road at Cropton.  The snow and sleet continued unabated and we were very pleased to see the New Inn at Cropton was open for business.  The kind barmaid sat us in front of the fire and made us fresh coffee.  We enjoyed a very pleasant half hour.

Arched bridge over the River Seven

We disturb a deer

"There should be a pub here..."

"There is!"

After leaving the warmth of The New Inn we had quite a long stretch on road which enabled us to make good progress.  When we returned to woodland paths we slowed as the weather had made the already wet ground very boggy and some areas had to be detoured, taking side paths through the trees.  Horses and mountain bikes had churned up the paths further.

Doing this walk in spring meant we were constantly entertained by the antics of lambs, at one point seeing two sheltering in an old bath made us laugh.

Baaa-th time!

Muddy tracks

Coffee stop

"Sometimes I sits and thinks and sometimes I just sits"

Our path took us next to the village of Newton-on-Rawcliffe and shortly after we descended Newton Dale and soon reached Levisham Station.  Today's route had more ups and downs than yesterday and the descent to the station was steep and muddy causing me to do a graceful slide at one point.

Labrador weather vane

The weather meant cattle were still in barns

Mouse bench at Newton Dale

Steep descent to Levisham Station

Levisham Station

The sting in the tail of today's walk is that Levisham Station is about 1.5 miles from Levisham and it's a steep uphill climb all the way to the village.

Eventually we reached Levisham and our destination, The Horseshoe Inn, where we found a another glorious fire, too tempting to resist and we enjoyed a couple of beers before retiring to luxuriate in a hot shower.

A long climb to Levisham

Carole disturbs a creche of lambs

Arriving at The Horseshoe

Cheers!

The evening meal was excellent at the Horseshoe and we reflected on a good day's walk, feeling quite pleased with ourselves for arriving in good condition, especially as far as feet were concerned.

To Day 3

Day 3

Levisham to Egton Bridge         

15 miles

We set off in good weather with a chilly wind, but had to put up our hoods to cope with frequent showers of stinging hail.

We walked out of Levisham along Braygate Lane which turned into a rough track after about half a mile.  After a gate we were walking across open moor and our path led us to the folly known as Skelton Tower.  This tower has a terrific situation overlooking Newton Dale Gorge and in his 'Inn Way' book Mark Reid explains that it was built in 1850 by the Rector of Levisham.  This eccentric vicar built the folly as a place he could escape to, to clear his mind and, it is suspected, enjoy a quiet drink.

We reach the moor after leaving Levisham

Newton Dale appears ahead

The folly of Skelton Tower

"Let down your hair..."

Looking into Newton Dale from the tower

We followed the moor top along Newton Dale until we descended to Havern Beck.  As we did so the sky became very black and we scrambled into our waterproofs as sleet began to fall.  The descent, already muddy, became very slippery as the sleet turned to heavy snow. 

The path alongside Newton Dale Gorge

The Whitby train passes below us

About to descend to Havern Beck and it's time for waterproofs

We get under cover for a coffee while waiting for the weather to improve

The snow eased as we crossed the railway line and began to climb out of the valley to Needle Point but the path was often flooded and large muddy puddles had to be negotiated.  As we reached the viewpoint at Killing Nab Scar snow began to fall once more.

Crossing the railway line in Newton Dale

Climbing towards Needle Point

Memorial bench en route

Carole at the viewpoint Killing Nab Scar

Robin at Needle Point

We then spent some time following forest tracks until we eventually reached a small gate next to a ruined building and the open moor ahead.

Our next problem area was the long moor crossing to Simon Howe and then The Two Howes, as the going was slow and boggy.  The narrow paths were flooded and it was difficult to step to the sides because of springy heather.  As we turned towards Goathland the path improved.  It seemed a very long walk in from the moor but it was worth it when we reached the Tea Room at Goathland. 

The moor path to Simon Howes

We descend off the moor to Goathland

Shall we go in?

You bet!

The atmosphere was warm and cosy in the tea room and we put our gloves in front of the warm fire to dry whilst enjoying coffee and cream scones.

As we left the tea room the weather improved and we even saw a bit of blue sky as we approached Goathland Station.

Goathland Station

A short walk took us to the very pretty hamlets of Darnholm in the valley of  Eller Beck, where we passed the tiny pub called Birch Hall Inn in Beck Hole.  The pub sign is a painting of Eller Beck by Algernon Newton, a member of the Royal Academy who used to drink at the pub.

Leaving the station towards Darnholm

Carole at Darnholm

We liked this sign

Birch Hall Inn at Beck Hole

Pub sign

This 'guy' gave us a shock

Easier paths followed Beck Hole and we walked along the bed of a disused railway which Mark Reid explains is the site of Stephenson's original railway.

Old railway walk

Retriever weather vane near Egton Bridge

The final descent through woodland was a welcome sight despite some slippery stretches.  Arriving at Egton Bridge we found that we had to cross some stepping stones to avoid a longer stretch of road walking.  The recent rain meant the river was deep and the greasy stones made crossing rather exciting. 

Our accommodation, The Old Mill, was just beyond the stepping stones. We were given a very large and comfortable room.

Later we ate at the Horseshoe Hotel and crossed the stepping stones for the outward journey but after several pints of Black Sheep Ale took the longer route to return to our accommodation.

Wet stones and deep water make Carole careful

Arriving at The Old Mill

To Day 4