Day 3

Levisham to Egton Bridge         

15 miles

We set off in good weather with a chilly wind, but had to put up our hoods to cope with frequent showers of stinging hail.

We walked out of Levisham along Braygate Lane which turned into a rough track after about half a mile.  After a gate we were walking across open moor and our path led us to the folly known as Skelton Tower.  This tower has a terrific situation overlooking Newton Dale Gorge and in his 'Inn Way' book Mark Reid explains that it was built in 1850 by the Rector of Levisham.  This eccentric vicar built the folly as a place he could escape to, to clear his mind and, it is suspected, enjoy a quiet drink.

We reach the moor after leaving Levisham

Newton Dale appears ahead

The folly of Skelton Tower

"Let down your hair..."

Looking into Newton Dale from the tower

We followed the moor top along Newton Dale until we descended to Havern Beck.  As we did so the sky became very black and we scrambled into our waterproofs as sleet began to fall.  The descent, already muddy, became very slippery as the sleet turned to heavy snow. 

The path alongside Newton Dale Gorge

The Whitby train passes below us

About to descend to Havern Beck and it's time for waterproofs

We get under cover for a coffee while waiting for the weather to improve

The snow eased as we crossed the railway line and began to climb out of the valley to Needle Point but the path was often flooded and large muddy puddles had to be negotiated.  As we reached the viewpoint at Killing Nab Scar snow began to fall once more.

Crossing the railway line in Newton Dale

Climbing towards Needle Point

Memorial bench en route

Carole at the viewpoint Killing Nab Scar

Robin at Needle Point

We then spent some time following forest tracks until we eventually reached a small gate next to a ruined building and the open moor ahead.

Our next problem area was the long moor crossing to Simon Howe and then The Two Howes, as the going was slow and boggy.  The narrow paths were flooded and it was difficult to step to the sides because of springy heather.  As we turned towards Goathland the path improved.  It seemed a very long walk in from the moor but it was worth it when we reached the Tea Room at Goathland. 

The moor path to Simon Howes

We descend off the moor to Goathland

Shall we go in?

You bet!

The atmosphere was warm and cosy in the tea room and we put our gloves in front of the warm fire to dry whilst enjoying coffee and cream scones.

As we left the tea room the weather improved and we even saw a bit of blue sky as we approached Goathland Station.

Goathland Station

A short walk took us to the very pretty hamlets of Darnholm in the valley of  Eller Beck, where we passed the tiny pub called Birch Hall Inn in Beck Hole.  The pub sign is a painting of Eller Beck by Algernon Newton, a member of the Royal Academy who used to drink at the pub.

Leaving the station towards Darnholm

Carole at Darnholm

We liked this sign

Birch Hall Inn at Beck Hole

Pub sign

This 'guy' gave us a shock

Easier paths followed Beck Hole and we walked along the bed of a disused railway which Mark Reid explains is the site of Stephenson's original railway.

Old railway walk

Retriever weather vane near Egton Bridge

The final descent through woodland was a welcome sight despite some slippery stretches.  Arriving at Egton Bridge we found that we had to cross some stepping stones to avoid a longer stretch of road walking.  The recent rain meant the river was deep and the greasy stones made crossing rather exciting. 

Our accommodation, The Old Mill, was just beyond the stepping stones. We were given a very large and comfortable room.

Later we ate at the Horseshoe Hotel and crossed the stepping stones for the outward journey but after several pints of Black Sheep Ale took the longer route to return to our accommodation.

Wet stones and deep water make Carole careful

Arriving at The Old Mill

To Day 4

Day 4

Egton Bridge to Rosedale Abbey

15 miles

We had a good breakfast in the sunny conservatory of the Old Mill and set off in high spirits on a lovely morning.  The first job was to cross the stepping stones but we were used to them now.

Leaving Egton Bridge

Back across the stones

We soon left the road at an Inn Way sign for Delves and as usual, spent some time crossing fields and stiles until we re-joined the road at the village of Delves. We walked through the village and then took a track into Arncliffe Wood.

Follow the sign to Delves

Descending to Delves

Entering Arncliffe Wood

 Some sections in Arncliffe Wood were paved 'trods,' an old pannier-man's way which made the going easy and we were pleased that the tracks weren't the muddy mess we had got used to yesterday.  We came to a large stone known as the Wishing Stone.  Our Inn Way book explained that it was believed that if you circumnavigated the stone three times your wish would come true.  I walked on leaving Carole circling the stone...

Carole considers the Wishing Stone

Catching up after circumnavigation

The Pannier-man's trod through Arncliffe Woods

The trod descended to reach the River Esk where it resumed as a track beside the river.  We followed the river for a while and reached a pub called the Arncliffe Arms. We then climbed the steep road to reach the village of Glaisdale. 

The River Esk

Looking back down river

Climbing into Glaisdale

Leaving the village we descended to the river once more and soon reached a very pretty old mill.

The old mill near Glaisdale

We continued by the river and crossing fields to reach the village of Lealholm where we were delighted to see a small cafe.  The lady running the cafe was a farmer's wife and as we enjoyed our cream scones and coffee she told us how badly the lambs were doing in this unusually cold weather. She explained that when a sheep gives birth to twins outdoors the first-born often dies of cold while she is giving birth to the second.

Weather vane near Glaisdale

Carole makes a friend

A grassy path besides the river

Hurrying out of our way

Lealholm and what does that sign say....?

"Share my scone...?"

"You cannot be serious!"

Leaving Lealholm we now walked for a couple of miles on the road until we reached a sign marked 'Glaisdale Rigg', onto the moors and on to some narrow paths which would be difficult to navigate in bad weather.  Some sections were boggy and the moor seems vast and bleak until a clearer path is gained along Glaisdale Rigg.  A rigg implies a ridge and our path followed this long curving feature for some distance across the top of the moor.

Climbing to Glaisdale Rigg

The Inn Way book mentions these standing stones so we must be right!

Walking along Glaisdale Rigg

Eventually there were fine views into Great Fryup Dale on our right and our notes said to look out for a large cairn at the head of the valley, which we located easily.  We then had to look for a smaller cairn, which we missed because it was a poor effort and set back from the track.  We wasted some time to-ing and fro-ing trying to find our turn off before back tracking to spot the elusive cairn.

Carole looks into Great Fryup Dale

Leaving the rigg path and entering the rough moor again was a boggy experience and we were grateful when we came to the 'George Gap Causeway'.  This is another stone trod which seems to appear and disappear; one suspects some sections have simply sunk beneath the moor. We were pleased to walk on the causeway when we could, both for the firm surface and as a directional aid.

The George Gap Causeway

The white square ahead of Carole is a marker on the Lyke Wake Walk

At one point we crossed a very worn, wide path which is the famous Lyke Wake Walk and as the rain had started, we stopped to change into waterproofs.  Hail stung our faces and rain tried to get under our hoods.  It made us admire the builders of the trod and the hardiness of our ancestors who didn't have the luxury of Gortex.

An older sign to 'ROSDAL'

Last photo of the day

By now the rain was torrential and I put my camera away in a waterproof bag.  Our long walk to Rosedale was along a path that necessitated much gate opening and closing with our sodden gloves.  Our wet weather gear was working well and we were still dry inside our man-made shells.  We discussed what a different experience this would be on a nice day and how grateful we were not to be sheep.

Fortunately there were no more steep climbs and we passed on to Rosedale Abbey slightly chilled but in good spirits.  We squelched into The White Horse Inn and the landlady kindly called the August Guest House, which is a mile outside Rosedale.  We then booked a meal at the inn for later in the evening and were soon being taken to our accommodation by our considerate and entertaining host for the night.

We were relieved of our wet gear with a promise that it would all be dried next to the Aga and went to our room for a cup of tea and a hot shower.  Another good day!

To Day 5